STREET-FOOD STAPLES in Vietnam, these butterflied quail are marinated in a slurry of oyster sauce, fish sauce, spices, garlic, and honey before being pan-fried and then—just to gild the lily—drenched ...

Many moons ago, when Jacob Hammer was cooking at Brasserie 529, he came in on a day off and taught himself how to make a ballotine. “I’ve got a book. I’ve got a bird. I’ve got headphones on. I’m ...